Good read Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. Thanks for the advice. I had a guy at work telling me that you set your richness with your float.
I tried to tell him it is your needle and other things but he insisted I was crazy. I guess the real telling sign is that my bike runs and his does not. Sent from my Moto G 4 using Tapatalk. I guess, in a sense, float level can affect richness and leanness.
If the level is too high, it'll flood the engine with raw fuel. Too low, it'll starve the motor for fuel. Factory Pro said If the float height is too low small float height measurement , bend the tab slightly to increase the height measurement. It's a movement ratio. CV: If the float sticks out further, down, into the float bowl, the carb will deliver less fuel leaner , especially at low rpms and at cruise.
You'd generally change the float height in 1mm increments when tuning. It will affect the topend slightly. Maybe 1. I'm almost certain these ailments are from the fuel level being too low. But why does it gain power after then? I realize thats when the needle starts to flow more, but how does it flow more if their is no fuel to flow? My plugs are towards the whitish side, however, which reaffirms my suspicion of a lean condition. Would out of synch carbs cause problems like this? I have only bench synched them, remember.
Where be the pilot screws set at? White plugs be lean As far as adjusting the height, I wasn't sure what to go with. I have 80 carbs, so I set the height to 23mm. But that ended up being super rich. So I then went with the earlier float setting of If the float tabs get bent or moved out of place, this can drastically affect how your bike functions and for such a simple part, can cause a LOT of issues!
What the hell is a float and how does it work? The float does what its name implies, it floats at the top of the fuel in your float bowl, and is attached to a needle that is situated in the float valve. The float needle is rubber tipped and when the float rises the needle is pressed into a V-shaped seat which then stops fuel from coming into the bowl.
As the motor-generated vacuum draws fuel up and out of the carb via jets and fuel and air passages, the fuel level in the bowl will drop, thus releasing the float needle from its seat and allowing more fuel to flow into the float bowl. It can never hurt to check your float height while you have your carbs off for a re-jet or just a cleanup. You know That'll get you close. Joined: Sep 18, Posts: 1, Profile Page.
Setting the "floot" level to specs is not "nuts". The manufacturers determine the specs, and they know a lot more about that particular carb than we do. I think the manufacturers anticipated this Thanks Carbking, Rickybop, and all others Carbking - I'll be calling you soon to get a kit for this bad boy. Rickybop - I browsed through your post when you were trying to get yours figured out. Thanks for the advice.
The main problem that I'm having with my carb is that it wants to stumble choke and die when revved form idle. At first I thought that was my only problem, but after running it with the choke knob out a little I realized that it was generally underpowered and sluggish all the time, and I only noticed that something was wrong when I revved it. That brings me to why I asked this question in the first place. I'm assuming that I'm running lean, so I was trying to decide wether to fiddle with the float level, or the jet size.
I'm leaning toward float level Boozer , Oct 26, Joined: Jun 1, Posts: Profile Page. Getting a carb right Step one: rebiuld it. It's been thoroughly cleaned now taken completely apart and soaked in berrymans carb dip for 24 hours I'll get to rebuilding it soon.
Boozer , Oct 27, Joined: Sep 8, Posts: 4, Profile Page. The only caveat here not anticipated by the original engineers is the physical make up of the stuff they call gasoline.
Which back then was pretty much gasoline, now it is a hydeocarbon soup made up of lots of different stuff. One consideration it to set the level a bit lower than spec to deal with hot starting issues, partularly perculation. Where the fuel in the bowl, sucks up heat specially with a enclosed hood and expands, boils over and floods the intake manifold with raw fuel, causing a flooded condition when you try a hot restart. I fought this for two summers before I lowerd my floats a couple hairs, then the problem went away.
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